Fuertaventura
"This unfortunate land, where, amidst the peaceful calm of the sky and the sea, I write this commentary, measures at its longest point, from north to south, one hundred kilometres, and at its widest, twenty-five kilometres. At its south-western end it forms an almost uninhabited peninsula, where, amidst the naked solitudes and solitary nakedness of the wretched earth, a few shepherds wander”.
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Miguel de Unamuno (1864 - 1936), a noted Spanish writer, poet and philosopher, reflecting on the Fuertaventura.
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See below for more information
Photographs taken 2016 to 2019
This work is one of three linked projects, each one an investigation of a volcanic island; Fuerteventura, Iceland and New Zealand - Aotearoa (North and South Islands combined).
The volcanoes of Fuerteventura are old and considered extinct with the last eruption being 4 - 5000 years ago, whereas those of Iceland are very much active. There was a recent Icelandic eruption of Fagradalsfjall in August 2022, and a huge eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in April 2010 which was so far reaching that many flights within Europe were cancelled following it. At this time May 2025, the most recent eruption was in the Sundhnúkur volcanic system close to the fishing town of Grindavik and the famous Blue Lagoon spa. New Zealand seems to be in-between with dormant/active volcanoes, the most recent eruption was, not on the mainland but on White Island/Whakaari 48 km off the coast, in December 2019
Whilst all three islands’ geological origins are volcanic there are evident current differences; the development of the landscape; the subsequent human adaptation to the landscape; the climatic conditions; the lighting; amongst others. I am particularly interested in the distinctiveness of each and attempt to reflect my differing experience, and observations of each, in the images presented of all three countries.
I would emphasis that I look at these islands through the eyes of an artist/photographer and not those of a geologist, my knowledge of geology and volcanic activity being merely that of an interested observer
Fuertaventura
Since Unamuno's description of the island (at top of page) various groups have come to the island and made their mark alongside the residents, especially from the sixties when the island became a favoured tourist destination. Traces of these developments are evident although Fuerteventura has managed to avoid the overdevelopment seen on other islands in the Canaries.
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Miguel de Unamuno
On September 13, 1924, General Miguel Primo de Rivera launched a successful military coup in Spain which resulted in him establishing himself as Dictator. Unamuno published a number of articles critical of the new government and was exiled without his family in 1924 to the island of Fuerteventura. On 10 March 1924 he arrived in Fuerteventura with little luggage, carrying only three books and stayed for 4 months, after which he was rescued and went to Paris. Dictator Rivera remained in power until forced to resign in 1930. Subsequently a return to a Republican civilian government led to the Second Republic.
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Fuerteventura was the first Canary Island to emerge from the Atlantic Ocean millions of years ago and has experienced no further eruptions in modern geological history. Natural erosional forces have since shaped the terrain creating smooth surfaces. Tindaya a 400 metre mountain is one of the earliest formed from the first eruption, 20 million years ago and provides a good example of this long process of erosion.
Historically the original inhabitants were called Guanches, known by contemporary islanders as Majoreros or Mahos, deemed similar to the Berbers of North Africa who reached the island 3000 years ago. They and subsequent arrivals left their imprints on the island. The Guanches built a kind of open-air temple at the top of Tindaya, known as the ‘Magic Mountain’ to perform various rituals, carving over 200 ancient petroglyphs bestowing a significant and often sacred role for the mountain. From 1404, with the coming of Christianity, the aboriginal inhabitants were forbidden from performing ‘pagan’ ceremonies. Whilst Tindaya is still known as the magic mountain, in recent decades quarrying has been allowed on it and other mountains, altering the landscape, albeit whist protecting these aboriginal imprints. A huge and controversial artificial cave has been bored into this "magic" mountain after authorities decided to go ahead with a project by Eduardo Chillida, a respected Spanish sculptor.* (see below)
A solid stone aboriginal wall built over 1000 years crossed the Isthmus of Jandía’ dividing the kingdoms of Maxorata to the north and Jandia to the south. Remains of this wall exist as do other wall remains across the island built in more recent centuries probably as field or land enclosures.
The Romans were aware of the island and the Arabs, Genoese, Majorcans, French and Portuguese visited it. In 1404 the island of Fuerteventura was ‘conquered’ by Jean de Béthencourt for the Crown of Castile and the land was ceded to the Spanish in a 15th C treaty. Various castles were built along the coastline to defend against attacks from Berbers initially and the English later, and the capital was moved inland to Betancuria. More recently defensive Pill boxes were built during the 1940’s, traces of these various constructions are still visible. In the 18th and early 19th Century the island lived off the selling of slaves, sugar, and later cereal, salt and lime. Towards the end of 19th century drought and economic hardship led to emigration. Fuerteventura´s recent history is linked to the cultivation and export of the tomato, goat farming, cheese production and fishing.
In present times, those with alternative lifestyles have come to the island and made their presence. From the 1960’s onwards tourism has left its imprints as has events such as the economic crisis of 2008 leaving derelict hotels and semi constructed buildings.
*The project has gone ahead after much controversy and despite concerns from environmentalists and warnings about the damage and also the corruption surrounding it. The roof of the cave is as high as that of the Turbine Hall at the Tate Modern in London. Chillida wrote, ”The sculpture has been conceived as a monument to tolerance and a work of art for the Canary people”. The sculptor did not see his vision completed having died in 2002.*For some Tindaya is an asset that can provide employment and potential prosperity, whilst for others it is an opportunity to reset the development plans for the island to more emphasis on indigenous origins and concerns for the environment.For those wishing to explore these ideas about Tindaya further, they may wish to look at research undertaken by Isaac Marrero-Guillamón, Goldsmiths, University of London, for the Journal of the Anthropological Institute.
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